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Bowmore
 scrapes in
 decent
 good
 excellent
 sublime
Bowmore, 12-year-old (Scotland) 
An enticing nose of lemon and gentle brine leads into a smoky, citric palate with notes of cocoa and boiled sweets appearing in the lengthy, complex finish. Bowmore does not always get the credit it deserves from lovers of Islay malt, who seem to find it less talismanic than the Holy Trinity of Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig. This is manifestly unfair, since in a comparatively subtle way Bowmore captures all that is best about Islays. 40.0% ABV, 70cl, £25, widely available. |  |
Bowmore, 15 Years Old Darkest Single Malt (Scotland)
The 15-year-old differs from the previous Bowmore ‘Darkest’ in that the maturation period in Oloroso Sherry casks has been extended from two to three years, and for the first time an age statement is specified. The nose offers rich, dark chocolate aromas and raisins, and greater depth and character than the (14-year-old) Darkest it replaces. Mouth-coating, rich and dark on the palate, with old Sherry, bitter chocolate, treacle toffee, and a hint of smoke, with treacle and smoke lingering in the lengthy, robust finish. 43.0% ABV, 70cl, £35.99, Morrisons, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Bowmore, 18 Years Old Single Malt (Scotland)
This 18-year-old expression replaces the 17-year-old in the UK market, and as the ‘17’ was my idea of the outstanding Bowmore in the range, it had to work hard to impress me. The nose is Classic Bowmore fruit, malt and subtle peat, with a lovely muted Sherry influence. A greater smokiness develops with time. Sweet and fruity on the palate, with smokiness and underlying peat, typical of aged Bowmore. If anything, this expression has a slightly more ‘maritime’ character than the 17-year-old it replaces. The finish is longer and drier.
According to the distillers, this expression contains a higher percentage of Oloroso Sherry cask-matured Bowmore, married for longer to give greater depth and complexity, while retaining the fruity flavours at the heart of the 17-year-old. A delightful, complex, confident whisky which proves that great Islays don’t have to be peat monsters. A worthy replacement for my previous favourite!
43.0% ABV, 70cl, £39.99, Morrisons, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose, specialist whisky merchants.  | |
Bowmore, 1971 (Scotland)
Just 960 bottles of 1971 Bowmore have been released. Matured in sherry casks for 34 years, this begins with quite muted Sherry notes on the nose, with fresh seaweed aromas emerging. Rockpools, and some woodsmoke. Black treacle, old leather upholstery and tobacco on the palate. Notably drying in the finish. 51.0% ABV, 70cl, £375, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Bowmore, 1989 16-Year-Old (Scotland)
Filled at natural cask strength and the first house bottling of Bowmore not to be chill-filtered. On the nose, fresh, sea spray, smoked haddock and light peat. Zesty, fruity notes on the palate, developing charcoal and poached kippers. Medium to long finish.
51.8% ABV, 70cl, £49.99, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Bowmore, 1990 16-year-old (Scotland)
Following cask strength releases of Bowmore 1971 and 1989, Morrison Bowmore has now added a 1990 expression to the range. Like the Auchentoshan above, it has been matured in Oloroso Sherry casks. Bowmore is the oldest distillery on Islay, and this 16-year-old is big and briny on the nose, with more brine, less peat and less perfume than the ‘standard’ 12-year-old version. Dilution produces more profound notes of char and black treacle.
Peat smoke is very evident on the palate, and a sherbet, fruity sweetness subsequently appears. The sweet notes are far more pronounced than in the 12-year-old. Water dries the dram out significantly, bringing Sherry and spices to the surface. The finish is lengthy and drying, with a sprinkling of pepper at cask strength, along with hints of sticking plasters and peat.
53.8% ABV, 70cl, £47.95, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Bowmore, Gordon & MacPhail Secret Stills 4.3 (Scotland)
Long noted as one of the most respected independent bottler of single malts, Elgin-based Gordon & MacPhail has nevertheless had to resort to releasing a number of expressions in its Secret Stills range when distillers have refused permission for their names to appear on the labels.
The range includes a 1955 Talisker, a brace of Cragganmores from the 1960s, two Auchentoshans from 1989 and three variants of 1989 Bowmore. The bottle may not proclaim ‘Bowmore,’ but when the back label declares that the contents was distilled in “…the oldest distillery on Islay” it hardly requires Miss Marple to uncover the ‘secret still’ involved.
The third release of 1989 Bowmore comprises whisky from four ex-Sherry hogsheads. The nose is filled with bonfire embers, smoked fish and smoked tea, with a pleasingly contrasting, sweet, heather honey note. Full bodied on the palate, again there is a lovely, contrasting interplay, this time between sweet fruits and medicinal, salty, bitter chocolate. The finish is long and slowly drying, with peat smoke and sweet honey notes. Bowmore is always well served by Sherry wood, and this is a fine example of a really well balanced and satisfying expression.
45.0% ABV, 70cl, £31.95, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Bowmore, Tempest (Scotland)
The latest release from the Islay distillery of Bowmore is a cask strength, limited edition (2,000 cases) bottling by the name of Tempest. It comprises 10-year-old whisky which has been matured in first-fill Bourbon casks.
According to Bowmore marketing manager Kirsteen Beeston, “We are so proud to reveal Bowmore Tempest. It’s a balanced, yet complex, dram that really captures the spirit of the distillery on Islay and the craftsmanship that has been applied to make this beautiful tasting malt.”
Initially, very fruity on the nose, with peaches and oranges, while peatiness develops, along with an edge of salt. Citrus fruit and barley sugar on the palate, backed by quite subtle peat. The finish is clean and lengthy, with lingering brine.
55.3% ABV, 70cl, £39.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
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