| |
Latest whisky tastings
a running "latest additions" is maintained here, so regular visitors can see at a glance what we've been tasting.
 scrapes in  decent  good  excellent  sublime
Highland Park, Ambassadors Cask 3 (Scotland) 
Having received a very positive reaction to its previous ‘Ambassador’s Cask’ bottlings, the Orkney distillery of Highland Park has recently issued a third such expression, again chosen by Global Brand Ambassador Gerry Tosh.
Tosh selected cask number 9035, filled in 1974, and bottled at 33 years of age. “The success of the first two Ambassador’s Casks is testament to the present demand for limited bottlings,” he declares. “By releasing the third edition in a 35cl bottle more people will have the opportunity to try this fantastic 33-year-old whisky. Cask 9035 was one of five under consideration and it will not disappoint, with a lingering aftertaste of dried fruits, setting it apart from the first two limited edition casks.”
The nose offers almonds, figs, chocolate, sweet malt, heather and developing floral notes. A whiff of peat smoke kicks in late. Characteristic Highland Park confidence and balance on the palate, elegant and poised, yet full-bodied, rich and creamy, with tangerines, nut fudge, and finally peat. The finish is filled with milk chocolate orange creams and sweet peat smoke, countered by an attractive, dry note of oak. Yet again, Highland Park offers a masterpiece, even if it is only a half bottle! Everything a great whisky should be.
44.8% ABV, 35cl, £95.00, distillery visitor centre, distillery website.  |  |
Bladnoch, John McDougall’s Selection 1990 (Scotland)
John McDougall has spent 46 years in the Scotch whisky industry and worked at 19 Scotch whisky distilleries, managing the likes of Balvenie, Laphroaig and Springbank. He subsequently embarked on a consultancy career and a role as a small-scale, independent bottler, working in conjunction with Jane Macduff of Cumbrae Supply Company Ltd.
McDougall’s latest release from Bladnoch Lowland distillery in south-west Scotland is the only authorised independent bottling of the single malt, and is presented at cask strength and without colouring or chill-filtration. Very attractive and richly-fruited on the nose, with apricots and peaches, marshmallows and underlying malt and allspice. The addition of water accentuates the whisky’s gentle, floral, perfumed notes. The palate offers malt and ginger with restrained vanilla, while water teases out more gingery spice. Nice weight for a Lowland. Medium length in the finish, dry and slightly ashy, with lingering notes of spice.
54.2% ABV, 70cl, £43.95, Wright Whisky Co, specialist whisky merchants.  |  |
Benromach, Latitude 57º (Scotland)
This is the third single cask release from Benromach intended to commemorate the Forres distillery’s partnership with the ‘Glasgow: Scotland with Style’ clipper, in the Clipper 07-08 Round the World Yacht Race. Benromach distillery is situated on the 57th Line of Latitude, and this expression from a European oak cask follows Latitudes 53 and 55.
Cask number 580 presents an expansive fruity, spicy ‘Christmas cake’ nose, which becomes more smoky and sooty with exposure to air. Quite dry on the palate, with raisins and walnuts, plus some underlying figs. The finish dries relentlessly, becoming nuttier and slightly oaky. 330 bottles.
57.0% ABV, 70cl, £49.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Hanyu, 1990 Japanese Oak Cask #9511 (Japan)
Hanyu distillery was situated in Hanyu City, north-west of Tokyo, and had its origins in a sake-making operation run by the Akuto family. In 1941 Isouji Akuto, built a factory at Hanyu to distil alcohol, and in 1980 a pair of pot stills was installed to produce a Scottish style of malt whisky. The Akuto’s original sake-making business was located in Chichibu, and 1990 saw the first of a range of whiskies produced under the Chichibu label. Hanyu distillery closed in 2000 and the distilling plant was subsequently dismantled, though Ichiro Akuto, grandson of the founder, acquired the plant and whisky stocks.
This 17-year-old example of Hanyu whisky is unusual in that it has been matured in Japanese Oak – Quercus Mongolica – and the nose offers attractive floral characteristics, with malt and fresh fruits, plus an exotic hint of sandalwood. The addition of water releases darker, smokier notes. The palate is sweet and comparatively syrupy; apple pie and custard, with more spicy, citric elements emerging after dilution. Lengthy and pleasantly dry in the finish. Ultimately slightly herbal.
This expression of Hanyu offers a significant contrast to the Karuizawa, reviewed above, but is another excellent example of a beautifully made and skilfully matured Japanese single cask malt whisky. (372 bottles).
55.5% ABV, 70cl, £94.00, Royal Mile Whiskies.  |  |
Highland Park, 40-Year-Old (Scotland)
As featured in this month’s Whisky News section, Highland Park has just released a new, permanent addition to its range in the shape of a 40-year-old expression.
According to a spokesman for the Orkney distillery, “Highland Park 40-year-old has been largely matured in refill casks, that is to say casks that have previously been used to mature whisky. Every time a cask is used, its ability to impart an influence on the spirit is diminished. When laying down a whisky for extended maturation, such as this, it is important that the cask doesn’t dominate the spirit. If first fill casks had been used, the sweetness (an oak-derived additive quality from the cask) would have been too strident. The long-term nature of the maturation of Highland Park 40-year- old allows time for the perfect balance to be achieved.”
A pretty, delicate, aromatic nose, with heather honey, gentle spices and soft toffee, balanced by plain chocolate notes which lurk in the background. On the palate, sherbet fizz is accompanied by molasses, figs, ripe oranges and Highland Park’s signature sweet, peat smoke. Sherbet citrus fruits last till the close of the long, smoky finish. At the risk of repeating ourselves, another beautifully balanced, perfectly crafted whisky from Highland Park!
48.3% ABV, 70cl, £899.00, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Jura, Elements - Earth (Scotland)
Distilled in 1999, Earth has been made using heavily-peated malt. It offers a nose of soft peat, wood smoke, damp vegetation, freshly-turned soil and a hint of cinnamon. The peat becomes more insistent and attractively acrid with exposure to air. Lively and spicy on the slightly salty palate, with prominent ginger, smouldering peat and a hint of fresh citrus fruit. The finish is medium in length, fruity and insistently spicy.
869 bottles.
46.0% ABV, 70cl, £49.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Jura, Elements - Fire (Scotland)
Fire was produced in 1998 and has been finished in fired, ex-Bourbon casks. The nose is notably floral, with garden flowers, chewy toffee and vanilla. More citrus fruits develop in time, and water stimulates delicious sticky toffee pudding notes. Quite mouth-coating and full-bodied, with vanilla, honey, dried fruits and gentle spices. Redolent of a small-batch Bourbon. Spice, vanilla and milk chocolate notes linger in the finish.
779 bottles.
46.0% ABV, 70cl, £74.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Jura, Elements – Air (Scotland)
Dating from 1993, Air has been matured in air-seasoned, ex-Spanish manzanilla barrels from Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Fragrant on the nose, with Sherry, nuts and fruit cake. Water releases fresher, zesty notes of sea spray and citrus. Quite dry on the palate, with dark chocolate, salt and muted Sherry. The finish becomes quite nutty, with slightly flat, damp oak.
729 bottles, individually numbered. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £99.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Jura, Elements – Water (Scotland)
The oldest of the four expressions, Water was distilled in 1989 and has been made using water from Jura’s ancient Loch a’Bhaile Mhargaidh, which is reputed to have life-prolonging properties. The initially floral nose is most distinctive, with developing orange marmalade, marzipan and a suggestion of smoke. Full-bodied in the mouth, with Sherry, oranges, hazelnuts and background coffee. Quite lively, yet satisfyingly weighty.
692 bottles, individually numbered. 50.0% ABV, 70cl, £149.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Karuizawa, Single Malt Whisky Cask #6878 (Japan)
Believed to be the oldest Japanese whisky on sale outside its country of origin, this latest offering from the Karuizawa distillery via the Number One Drinks Company has an extraordinarily high strength, considering it has been maturing for 36 years.
A rich, expansive nose of Sherry – deliciously fruity, with orange marmalade, molasses and a background earthy note. With time, the fruits soften to orange fondant creams. Huge on the palate, with drying Sherry, slightly burnt raisins and liquorice. Water teases out more smoky, stewed fruit characteristics. The finish is very long, with a persistent note of spicy oranges.
A surprising, and very welcome, lack of negative oak impact after so long in the cask. A superb, robust veteran that has matured magnificently. (558 bottles).
64.1% ABV, 70cl, £111.00, Royal Mile Whiskies. |  |
|
|
