Small Batch Irish

Greenore Single Grain Small Batch Irish Whiskey is the latest release from Cooley, Ireland's only independent distiller. Cooley distillery is located close to the Irish border, near Dundalk, and has now been producing whiskey for the best part of two decades.

Single Grain whiskeys as a genre are very rare, as most grain whiskey is made specifically for blending, but a number of respected authorities consider the grain spirit distilled at Cooley to be particularly fine, and Greenore finally allows us all to make up our minds. Greenore is matured for eight years in casks that were formerly filled with Bourbon, and each year a small batch of casks will be hand picked by Cooley's Master Blender. This will result in limited bottlings of varying ages being introduced over the next few years. The initial release of eight-year-old Greenore will be followed by a 10-, 16- and finally an 18-year-old. Production of each 'vintage' will be limited to 5,000 bottles, due to inventory constraints. Although distilled near Dundalk, Greenore, in common with the rest of the Cooley range, is matured in 200-year-old warehouses at the former Locke's distillery at Kilbeggan in County Westmeath.

£19.99, in the UK from www.classicwhiskey.com

The Whisky

Cooley, Connemara Cask Strength (Ireland) Connemara is available in three expressions, one which carries no age statement, a 12-year-old, and a cask strength version. The cask strength offering is the lightest in colour, being pale yellow rather than golden, which would suggest comparative youth. It is not coloured or chill-filtered. The nose is a smouldering turf fire, with someone toasting marshmallows over it. By far the sweetest and most profound of the three Connemara expressions in the mouth, Cask Strength is big and powerful, with sugary, spicy malt, insinuating peat smoke and peppery, drying oak. The oak continues to develop with liquorice and well sugared coffee in the lengthy finish. If you were expecting a brawler, what you actually get is something of a gentle giant. This behaves impeccably, and, despite its strength, should be drunk neat for maximum appreciation. The successful recreation of an old, classic style. For my money, Connemara Cask Strength is one of the very best Irish whiskeys available. 58.4% ABV, 70cl, 36.95, specialist whisky merchants.

Cooley, Connemara Sherry Finish Peated Single Malt Irish Whiskey (Ireland) At last, we have Ireland’s answer to Lagavulin! This release follows a highly-acclaimed single cask Sherry-finish offering and is the first release in a ‘Small Batch Collection.’ Just 10,000 bottles will be available for an 18 month period. Future bottlings are expected to include a heavily-peated expression. The Sherry-finish version comprises whiskeys aged between five and 15 years, which have undergone secondary maturation in ex-Sherry wood for a period of around 18 months. The nose offers a big hit of rich, raisiny, smoky leather. Riding boots standing close to a turf fire. It becomes slightly more rubbery with prolonged exposure to air, and more overt Sherry notes develop. The palate is bold, with citrus fruits, freshly-laid tarmac and liquorice. Water releases a greater flavour of Sherry. The lengthy finish features more citrus fruits, liquorice and bonfire smoke. A great winter’s evening whiskey. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £50.00, specialist whisky merchants.

Cooley, Greenore Single Grain Small Batch (Ireland) According to Jack Teeling, New Business Development Manager for Cooley Distillery, "We are starting out with an eight-year-old bottling but over the next few years will be releasing choice casks of different aged single grain whiskies. This will be a great journey for Cooley, our customers and whiskey drinkers alike." Appetising on the nose, with a hint of lemon and vanilla, Glenore is notably smooth on the palate. It is principally characterised by honey and vanilla sweetness, yet possesses substantial body for a single grain whiskey. The finish is pleasingly drying and quite firm. 40.0% ABV, 70cl, £19.99, distillery website.

Cooley, Single Cask Single Grain Irish Whiskey (Ireland) This 16-year-old single grain, single cask (cask # 12441) whiskey may seem to represent a niche of a niche, and as such could be dauntingly expensive, but this exclusive bottling for the Milroy’s of Soho Single Cask Collection is a comparatively affordable way of sampling something very unusual. Cooley distillery was established by entrepreneur John Teeling in a former industrial alcohol plant near Dundalk in 1987, and after surviving some turbulent financial times the venture is now thriving as Ireland’s only independent distilling operation. With a fraction of the budget that Diageo and Pernod Ricard can throw at the promotion of their Bushmills and Jameson whiskeys, Cooley has established a reputation for producing well regarded brands such as Locke’s, Connemara and Tyrconnell single malts. A more recent addition to the Cooley line up is Greenore eight-year-old single grain, and this Milroy’s bottling is effectively the same spirit at twice the age, with 16 years of maturation in a first fill Bourbon hogshead under its belt. Made from unmalted barley, it was double distilled in a Coffey still. The result is a whiskey with a rich, enticing nose of spicy butterscotch and sponge pudding with custard. Smooth and sensual on the quite complex palate, with honey, malt, milk chocolate, vanilla and more spice. The finish is lingering and creamy, with ginger and vanilla offering a contrast with the pleasant bitterness of ageing oak. A lovely example of mature grain whiskey. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £45.00, Milroy's of Soho.