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Recent releases, December 2006


Ardbeg, 16-Year-Old Airigh Nam Beist (Scotland)
According to the distillers, “The curious name is pronounced Arry nam Baysht and is the second loch down from Uigeadail. It therefore performs a balancing role in supplying the water from Loch Uigeadail required by the distillery. In the ancient Gaelic language it means “place, or shelter of the beast or animals” …and a very ghostly place it is too!” Airigh Nam Beist becomes the third regular, ‘house’ expression of Ardbeg on the market, alongside the 10 Years Old and the cask strength Uigeadail, which carries no age statement and was introduced in 2003. The newcomer offers a softer, sweeter and creamier nose than the 10 Years Old version, with less overt peatiness. Big and brooding on the palate, with burning peat and seaweed. Oily and slightly peppery, with ripe fruit characteristics. The addition of water brings out liquorice, dark chocolate and even violet notes. The finish is lengthy, with strong coffee and liquorice, but predominantly bonfire smoke. An excellent addition to the distinguished Ardbeg range. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £43.95, specialist whisky merchants.
Bruichladdich, 3D3 (Scotland)
Also from Islay, the latest heavily peated offering from Jim MacEwan and the ‘Laddie’ team pays tribute to the legendary Norrie Campbell, Islay’s last traditional peat cutter, who died in 2006. 3D3 follows its two predecessors by embracing whiskies of three vintages with three different peating levels, and the most heavily peated whisky in the world, Octomore, makes its first public appearance in this expression. 3D3 contains whisky from both ex-Sherry and ex-Bourbon casks, with the Sherry wood giving nuttiness, while the American oak provides toffee and creme brulee characteristics. Firstly, however, you have to get past the peat, in a whisky described by MacEwan as “a Hebridean fireball.” Extremely peaty on the initial nose, much more so than editions one and two, probably thanks to the youthful exuberance of the Octomore, but with welcome fresh notes of apples and herbs, too. Obviously peaty in the mouth, but not as overwhelming as might be expected, with spices, pepper and an attractive ‘earthy’ quality rounding out the palate experience. The very lengthy finish is dominated by peat, coal tar and pepper. A drop of water helps to open up some of the nutty and toffee notes supplied by the casks. Jim MacEwan’s summary of “Potent, but not aggressive,” seems spot on. If you enjoy ‘in your face’ whiskies this is not to be missed. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £34.95, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.
Compass Box, Flaming Heart (Scotland)
Following the release of Oak Cross (see October’s Recent Releases), John Glaser and his Compass Box colleagues have come up with another intriguing blended malt. Flaming Heart is limited to just 2,100 bottles and comprises one-quarter Caol Ila, a significant amount of Clynelish and a dash of Daluaine. Caol Ila is clearly present on the nose, with sweet peat and apples, followed by other fresh fruits, including peaches. A subtly smoky note hangs over the entire proceedings. The initially sweet palate offers more Caol Ila character, with vibrant fruits from the Clynelish, but the ultimate impression is of spicy dryness, aniseed and even a touch of tarry bitterness. The finish is long and balanced, with pepper, peat and spices. Complex and intriguing. 48.9% ABV, 70cl, £38.50, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.
Dalmore, 1973 Chateau Haut Marbuzet Cabernet Sauvignon (Scotland)
Dalmore single malts tend to hold their age extremely well, as evidenced by this highly unusual 33-year-old limited edition offering from Dalmore distillery on the Cromarty Firth, north of Inverness, Initially matured in American White Oak, this whisky has subsequently spent several years in Cabernet Sauvignon casks. The nose is initially far from typical of a Dalmore, with notes of grape pulp, prunes and fudge, giving way to aromas of soft fruit and honey. The citric character of Dalmore is combined on the palate with blackberries, liquorice and a clear suggestion of fruity red wine. The finish is long and spicy with plums and persistent berries right to the end. An intriguing whisky with true elegance and refinement. The ‘King of Grapes’ has done Dalmore proud. 52.0% ABV, 70cl, £395.00, specialist whisky merchants.
Dalmore, 40 Years Old (Scotland)
Distilled on 13th February 1965, and matured in American White Oak before a period of finishing in Gonzalez Byass Oloroso Sherry butts. As with the new 33-year-old Dalmore, just 1,000 bottles of this expression have been released, and both should find their way into the shops during the next few weeks. Classic Dalmore orange marmalade combines with Christmas pudding on the nose. Faint notes of wood linger in the background but fail to spoil the party. Brittle toffee and bitter chocolate combine skilfully on the palate with spicy orange and almonds. The finish goes on forever. What a great whisky to find in your Christmas stocking! 40.0% ABV, 70cl, £1,300.00, specialist whisky merchants.
Glengoyne, Single Cask Limited Edition 1990 (Scotland)
Glengoyne distillery is continuing its highly successful single cask release policy and has just added 21, 29 and 36-year-old expressions to the range, along with a 1990 bottling which is available exclusively in miniature format. Distilled on 21st May 1990 and matured in a first fill European Oak Oloroso Sherry butt, 2,496 bottles of this Glengoyne have been produced, and it is an ideal, affordable Christmas present for the whisky lover who enjoys something a little unusual. It offers a rich and heavily Sherried nose, with marmalade, caramel, old leather and saddle soap. An immense, rich Sherry blast on the palate is followed by molasses, and the flavour steadily becomes drier, with raisins, liquorice and even pepper. The finish is sustained and profound. This Glengoyne brings a lasting glow. 56.6% ABV, 5cl, £9.99, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.
Glenlivet, Cellar Collection 1969 (Scotland)
The exclusive Glenlivet Cellar Collection was established in 1999, and previous annual releases have included The 1967 Vintage, The American Oak Finish 30-Year-Old, The Glenlivet French Oak Finish 1983, and the The Glenlivet 1972 Cellar Collection. This year’s limited edition 1969 expression was selected from the best casks of 1969 Glenlivet by Master Distiller Jim Cryle, and is presented in a solid ash frame, complete with leather and brass fittings. Each bottle is individually numbered and labelled with the bottling date and whisky strength. The nose is soft yet voluptuous, with a range of fruits, most notably oranges, merging with spices and hazelnut. Soft and velvety on the palate, with more oranges and mixed spices, plus digestive biscuits and those floral notes that are one of The Glenlivet’s hallmarks. Long, elegant and complex in the finish. Another splendid vintage offering from one of Scotland’s finest distilleries. 50.8% ABV, 70cl, £375.00, specialist whisky merchants.
Whyte & Mackay, 40 Years Old Blend (Scotland)
The oldest Whyte & Mackay blend released to date, this expression should be available later this month and is limited to just 1,000 bottles. It includes malts matured in both American White Oak and Gonzales Byass Amoroso Sherry butts. According to the company’s Master Blender Richard Paterson, “Time is needed to study and appreciate this old masterpiece. Rare aged grain and malt whiskies have been selected to produce a blend of indefinable smoothness. However, with 70 per cent malt (in recognition of John McIlraith’s 70 years of service with the company during the 19th century), in this noble blend there is adequate structure and backbone from the Highlands to make their immediate presence felt.” Vanilla fudge, chocolate and sweet Sherry on the luxurious nose, which dries and offers orange marmalade and old oak with time. Big and mouth-coating, notably spicy, with ripe oranges and peaches on the palate, which dries steadily and elegantly, finally giving bitter chocolate and nuts. Difficult to keep a whisky this old from going over the edge into an undesirable oak-fest, but Paterson manages it with aplomb. If you can afford it, try it! 48.0% ABV, 70cl, £499.00, specialist whisky merchants.
  

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