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Recent releases, January 2007
Diageo Special Releases
Diageo's eagerly awaited annual batch of Special Releases, issued late in 2006, includes limited edition cask strength single malts from the ages of 8 to 30, and, as
usual, the overall quality is exceptional. Below we feature five of the nine Special Releases, all available from specialist retailers, beginning with the most limited of the
expressions, a 30-year-old from Brora distillery in East Sutherland. Brora distillery closed in 1983, and its
make has subsequently become something of a cult malt to rival the leading Islays.
Brora, 30-Year-Old Special Release (Scotland) 
This 2006 release of Brora 30-Year-old is part of Diageo’s annual batch of Special Releases. It has been matured in a mixture of refill ex-Sherry and American oak casks, and initially offers fresh pine on the nose, followed by mild maritime notes, brine and wood polish. Water produces fresh fruits and something altogether smokier. A big, slightly oily mouth feel, dry, confident and profound, with plenty of peat smoke. The long finish is drying and slightly peppery, with the final impressions being of liquorice and smoke. This much mourned malt holds its age magnificently. Such a shame the Brora stills have been sold to China! 2,130 bottles. 55.7% ABV, 70cl, £175.00, specialist whisky merchants.  |  |
Caol Ila, 8-Year-Old Special Release (Scotland)
The youngest and least expensive Special Release on offer, this Caol Ila is something really special as it is an example of the ‘Highland’ style of unpeated Caol Ila, made in limited quantities each year and usually destined for the blending vats. Few of us have previously had the opportunity to compare it with its smokier sibling.
The characteristic Caol Ila soapy, resiny nose is there, plus fresh fruits and spice. The palate is distinctly lively, with a fruity sherbet fizz. Lingering fruit and finally pepperiness characterise the finish. Fascinating to compare with the ‘regular’ Caol Ila, and I’d love to try it at 12. A malt worthy of release in its own right, but I don’t see that happening anytime soon! 12,990 bottles.
58.9% ABV, 70cl, £32.00, specialist whisky merchants.  |  |
Dalwhinnie, 20-Year-Old Special Release (Scotland)
This 20-year-old Dalwhinnie from Scotland’s highest distillery was matured in a second refill European oak cask, and has a very inviting nose; full, yet soft and rounded, with honey, sweet Sherry and warming spices. Brittle toffee and characteristic Dalwhinnie ‘heather honey’ notes on the palate, but with a more profound, Sherried background than the ‘standard’ 15-year-old Classic Malt variant. Spices and some smoke develop. Pleasingly complex. Long and warming in the finish, with ginger, oak and Sherry, plus cough lozenges and lingering toffee.
A delicious, ripe, mature Dalwhinnie which has taken a surprising amount of character from its second refill cask. The Sherry influence makes this something very special, and I just want to keep drinking it… 4,200 bottles.
56.8% ABV, 70cl, £90.00, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Port Ellen, 27-Year-Old Special Release (Scotland)
This is part of Diageo’s 2006 batch of Special Releases. Like Brora, Port Ellen distillery closed in 1983, and also represents a real loss for most malt aficionados. Some of us even consider it the best of all the Islays. This is the oldest bottling of Port Ellen ever undertaken by Diageo.
Typically balanced and well mannered on the nose, with a restrained peat smokiness and maritime, medicinal characteristics. Soft and yielding on the viscous palate, with apricots and plus emerging alongside peat, subtle smokiness and brine. At its best neat, despite its strength, though water releases more of a maritime dimension. The finish is long, elegant and nutty. 5,610 bottles.
54.2% ABV, 70cl, £175.00, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Talisker, 25-Year-Old Special Release (Scotland)
Matured in refill American oak casks, this Isle of Skye malt is a classic in any guise, and the 2006 Special Release offers an earthy, peaty nose, with sweet fruits, heather and some wood smoke. It is characteristically ebullient and mouth-filling. The ‘lava of the Cuillins’ is in fine form here, smoky and oily, with spices and typical Talisker pepper on the tongue, plus an intriguing hint of fruity sweetness. The lengthy finish combines smouldering peat, black pepper and more of that fresh fruit sweetness. Finally, the pepper just gains the upper hand.
Talisker is one of those indispensable malts, without which a winter fireside seat is incomplete. If you are only familiar with the excellent 10-year-old Classic Malt then this complex 25-year-old should be essential drinking, despite its price tag. 4,860 bottles.
56.9% ABV, 70cl, £105.00, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Ichiro's Japanese malts
The story of Hanyu distillery was recounted in last month's Whisky News, and sampling the first four imported single cask expressions of 'Ichiro's Malt' only serves to
confirm our opinion that Japanese whiskies are a serious rival to the best Scotch on the market. All four are available from selected specialist retailers, but quantities
are very limited, so don't wait too long if you want to try them.
Ichiro’s Malt, 1985 Ace of Spades (Japan)
From a Spanish oak cask, Ace of Spades presents a beguiling nose of floral notes, plus sweet malt and fudge, developing into treacle toffee. This whisky makes a major impact on the palate, with molasses, dry Sherry and developing tar. The finish is long, very drying, with persistent tarry, liquorice notes. Rugged, big and characterful. Perhaps not too far from going over the edge. 300 bottles.
55.7% ABV, 70cl, £120.00, selected whisky specialists. |  |
Ichiro’s Malt, 1988 King of Diamonds (Japan)
Finished in a US oak ex-Sherry cask, this bottling is fresh, fruity and elegant on the nose, with a hint of new leather. Rich, full bodied and fruity in the mouth with almost phenolic notes and mixed spices. The finish is long and spicy, with a hint of sweet peat. Lots of character and complexity, with just a slight suggestion of Islay in there?
555 bottles.
56.0% ABV, 70cl, £89.95, selected whisky specialists. |  |
Ichiro’s Malt, 1990 Queen of Hearts (Japan)
Finished in a French oak ex-Cognac cask, Queen of Hearts is delicate and very sweet and floral on the nose, with just a hint of background smokiness. The palate offers violets and fruits, with vigorous spice. The finish is fairly long, fruity, nutty and gently drying. Delicious. Quintessentially Japanese in its elegance, balance and floral refinement.
324 bottles.
54.6% ABV, 70cl, £74.95, selected whisky specialists. |  |
Ichiro’s Malt, 1991 Jack of Clubs (Japan)
This expression has undergone a US oak Sherry wood finish, and the nose displays malt, resin and fresh fruit. The palate is rich, sophisticated, warming and full bodied, and the finish is comparatively long, with pleasing oak notes and a touch of coal.
A lovely, approachable, yet complex whisky.
330 bottles.
56.8% ABV, 70cl, £69.95, selected whisky specialists. |  |
Two new Bowmores
In last month's Whisky News we featured changes to the Bowmore line up, including the introduction of new 15 Years Old Darkest and Years Old expressions.
Bowmore, 15 Years Old Darkest Single Malt (Scotland)
The 15-year-old differs from the previous Bowmore ‘Darkest’ in that the maturation period in Oloroso Sherry casks has been extended from two to three years, and for the first time an age statement is specified. The nose offers rich, dark chocolate aromas and raisins, and greater depth and character than the (14-year-old) Darkest it replaces. Mouth-coating, rich and dark on the palate, with old Sherry, bitter chocolate, treacle toffee, and a hint of smoke, with treacle and smoke lingering in the lengthy, robust finish. 43.0% ABV, 70cl, £35.99, Morrisons, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Bowmore, 18 Years Old Single Malt (Scotland)
This 18-year-old expression replaces the 17-year-old in the UK market, and as the ‘17’ was my idea of the outstanding Bowmore in the range, it had to work hard to impress me. The nose is Classic Bowmore fruit, malt and subtle peat, with a lovely muted Sherry influence. A greater smokiness develops with time. Sweet and fruity on the palate, with smokiness and underlying peat, typical of aged Bowmore. If anything, this expression has a slightly more ‘maritime’ character than the 17-year-old it replaces. The finish is longer and drier.
According to the distillers, this expression contains a higher percentage of Oloroso Sherry cask-matured Bowmore, married for longer to give greater depth and complexity, while retaining the fruity flavours at the heart of the 17-year-old. A delightful, complex, confident whisky which proves that great Islays don’t have to be peat monsters. A worthy replacement for my previous favourite!
43.0% ABV, 70cl, £39.99, Morrisons, Sainsbury's, Tesco, Waitrose, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
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