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Recent releases, February 2007

Adelphi 'Breath of Angels' Series

Adelphi distillery was established in Glasgow's Gorbals district in 1826, and though the distillery itself closed in 1907, the name lives on in one of Scotland's most respected independent bottlers. Now based at Glenborrodale Castle in the remote Ardnamurchan area of Argyllshire, Adelphi has launched its Breath of Angles series to market single malts that have been produced by what Adelphi calls “unnameable distilleries.” In other words, those that do not wish independent bottlers to put their names on releases over which they have no control.

The series currently comprises four single cask, natural strength, un-chill-filtered malts, representing the Highlands, Speyside, The Isles and Islay.
Adelphi, Breath of Islay 1992 (cask no. 5346) (Scotland)
The third ‘Breath of Islay’ release, this 13-year-old expression from an American Oak hogshead has a dry nose, with smoke, peat and almonds. Water releases sweeter, fresh fruit notes. Big and textured on the palate, with peat smoke which becomes progressively sweeter in the mouth. The finish is long, nutty and smoky, with perhaps a suggestion of camomile. A very sound southern Islay malt for the peat heads amongst you. 298 bottles. 57.6% ABV, 70cl, £53.95, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.
Adelphi, Breath of Speyside 1991 (cask no. 5642) (Scotland)
A fifteen-year-old whisky which contrasts strongly with the Bourbon cask-matured Highland malt in this series. The nose is big, rich and confident, with marmalade and Sherry notes predominating. Water releases more fruity aromas and a little smoke. Massive sweet Sherry presence on the palate – Christmas cake, leather, saddle soap and raisins. The finish is extremely long and warming, with sweet Sherry and fudge notes lingering to the very end, and the very end takes some reaching! Something of a Sherry monster, yet still refined and well rounded. Surely from a first fill ex-Sherry cask. If I had to guess at its origins, I’d opt for The Macallan or Aberlour. Very like Aberlour a’bunadh. 615 bottles. 60.3% ABV, 70cl, £55.00, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.
Adelphi, Breath of the Highlands 1985 (cask no. 1065) (Scotland)
This 20-year-old Highland single malt presents a floral, fresh fruit (lemon?) and malt nose, with a suggestion of beeswax and some attractive oak notes. Gentle in the mouth, even at cask strength, sweet and fruity, with peaches, drying as it develops on the palate. The finish is long and well-mannered. A sophisticated dram, matured in a good cask, as you would expect from an older Adelphi bottling. 176 bottles. 55.1% ABV, 70cl, £61.00, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.
Adelphi, Breath of The Isles 1992 (cask no. 3201) (Scotland)
This is the second release of a ‘Breath of the Isles,’ and was matured in an American Oak hogshead. Initially, the nose offers acetone notes, pear drops and caramel, but with developing smoke and peatiness. Big bodied, with peat, pepper and wood smoke on the palate, but all balanced by an attractive fruitiness. Pepper and ginger linger long in the finish, though fruit pastilles have the final say. There are not many peaty, assertive non-Islay ‘island’ malts to choose from! Surely this is Talisker? If so, it’s an extremely fine example of the Isle of Skye classic. 299 bottles. 52.6% ABV, 70cl, £54.75, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.

BenRiach 'Wood Finish' Series

The owners of BenRiach distillery in the heart of Speyside are keen to make a wide range of expressions available to drinkers and collectors, and the latest additions to the line up comprise four wood finishes. Each is 15 years old, and offered unchill-filtered and without colouring. According to BenRiach's Alistair Walker, "The 'wood finish' series reflects the diversity of cask styles that we use to mature our whiskies in the five traditional dunnage warehouses at BenRiach, and are superb examples of the additional qualities 'finishing' can bring to a malt whisky."
BenRiach, Aged Tawny Port Wood Finish (Scotland)
Following traditional maturation in ex-Bourbon barrels, this BenRiach was finished in Aged Tawny Port hogsheads from the Douro region of northern Portugal. It offers a nose of over-ripe bananas, honey, coconut and butterscotch. Big, sweet and mouth-coating, the palate is characterised by sultanas, spice and pleasing oak. The finish is medium in length, gently drying, with those black bananas from the nose returning at the very end. 340 cases. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £34.99, specialist whisky merchants.
BenRiach, Dark Rum Wood Finish (Scotland)
This BenRiach has been finished in Dark Rum barrels, acquired from the Caribbean island of Jamaica, following initial maturation in American Oak. Comparatively delicate on the nose, with rum, spices, caramel and sultanas, plus that characteristic BenRiach butteriness. Initially, clean and fresh on the palate, with developing spices, chocolate, cinnamon and fresh fruit. The rum-soaked finish is shorter and cleaner than the other whiskies in this range, with more of a citric edge. 350 cases. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £34.99, specialist whisky merchants.
BenRiach, Madeira Wood Finish (Scotland)
After maturation in American Bourbon casks, this expression of BenRiach was finished in Henriques and Henriques’ Madeira barrels, sourced from the semi-tropical Portuguese island of Madeira, hundreds of miles off the coast of north-west Africa, in the Atlantic Ocean The nose offers wood polish, peaches, and, once again, nougat and popcorn. Sharper than the Pedro Ximinez finish. Warming, mouth-coating, buttery and spicy on the palate, with hazelnuts, Madeira, and a lengthy spice and furniture polish finish. 400 cases. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £34.99, specialist whisky merchants.
BenRiach, Pedro Ximinez Sherry Wood Finish (Scotland)
Initially matured in American Bourbon barrels, this whisky was then ‘finished’ in Pedro Ximinez Sherry butts, sourced from the bodegas of Jerez de la Frontera in Andalucia, Southern Spain. Soft and sweet on the nose, with pink nougat and butterkist. Gingerbread develops later. Rich and Sherried on the palate, with dark chocolate notes and a hint of rosewater and sherbet. The lengthy finish is gingery and spicy, with satisfying oak. The Pedro Ximinez is in great harmony with the essential character of BenRiach. All four finishes work well, but for me this is the perfect match, and my favourite BenRiach release to date. 510 cases. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £34.99, specialist whisky merchants.
  

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