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Recent releases, April 2007
Kilchoman, New Spirit (Scotland) 
Few whisky drinkers ever get to sample ‘new make’ spirit straight from the still, so it is not surprising that Kilchoman supremo Anthony Wills’ decision to release new spirit from Islay’s youngest distillery in miniature bottles has been greeted with a great deal of enthusiasm.
Kilchoman has to be sold as ‘spirit’ rather than whisky as it has not been matured for a minimum of three years, and, according to Wills, “The new make is our greatest marketing tool, and it’s been a real success, selling from our distillery shop, in export markets and in specialist UK retailers. We might release a one and a half year old because of all the interest.”
Fresh and cerealy on the nose, with mild antiseptic notes. Quite sweet, peaty and fruity. Water releases more overt cigarette-style smoke. Big and smoky/sweet on the palate, with pears, mangos and even oranges. The finish is long, warming and delicately smoky. Remarkably complex and well mannered for new make. I’m eagerly anticipating an eighteen months old expression!
63.5% ABV, 5cl, 4.99, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.  |  |
This year Glenmorangie plc celebrates ten years of Ardbeg ownership, and a
repackaged ten-year-old expression of single malt will appear in 2008 to mark the occasion. This will be the first bottling of the iconic Islay spirit distilled under the Glenmorangie regime. In the meantime, we have the third and final step on what the distillers call “The path to maturity.”
Ardbeg, Almost There (Scotland)
In 2004 Ardbeg Very Young appeared, followed by Still Young in 2006. Now Almost There has been released, featuring nine-year-old whisky. This series of bottlings has given Ardbeg’s many aficionados the opportunity to chart the spirit’s progress as it matures, and there have been some surprises along the way.
As Ardbeg’s Jackie Thomson notes, “Very Young had a really phenolic nose, and Still Young was much creamier and a bit woodier. People expected Almost There to keep the creaminess, but it’s surprised them. It’s more phenolic than you might expect, rather back to the style of the Very Young. We’re not sure which way it will go for the ten-year-old. The jury’s out, and it’s exciting.”
Initially quite cerealy on the nose, sweet, with vanilla and lemon yet significantly phenolic. Peat develops with exposure to air, and there is a more profound ‘roasted’ note than in the Still Young. Very sweet and smoothly intense on the palate, where lemon can again be detected, followed by spices and pepper. The finish is smooth, long and peaty, but with a peppery prickle. Another intriguing Ardbeg bottling.
54.1% ABV, 70cl, 29.99, distillery website, specialist whisky merchants.  |  |
Benromach, Sassicaia Wood Finish (Scotland)
Following on from the success of its Organic and Tokaji Wood Finish expressions, the team behind Benromach distillery near Forres has recently unveiled the latest addition to its range, namely Sassicaia Wood Finish.
After an unspecified period of initial maturation, the Benromach spirit is transferred into casks which previously held the highly prestigious Sassicaia wine, made in the Tuscan region of Bolgheri. It then spends an additional 27 months maturing before being bottled.
Benromach distillery is owned by the Elgin firm of Gordon & MacPhail, and according to director David Urquhart, “Benromach is a hand-made, exclusive single malt whisky that is complemented by the qualities of one of the world’s most esteemed wines. A beautiful balance is struck between the rich Sassicaia and the fruit and peat smoke elements of Benromach.”
Rich and robust on the nose, fruity, with vanilla, sultanas and spices. Butter and wood smoke develop with exposure to air. The palate is initially dry and notably spicy, with wild berries, dry Sherry, cloves butterkist and bonfire smoke. The finish is long and kippery, with a suggestion of black treacle. Notably well balanced and distinctly different, this finish works extremely well with the always excellent Benromach spirit.
45.0% ABV, 70cl, £27.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Balblair 'Vintage' Series
Inver House Distillers has radically overhauled its Balblair single malt range, replacing the likes of Elements and 10 and 16-year-old expressions with a trio of 'vintage' releases.
It has sometimes been suggested that Balblair was not improved by the routine addition of caramel, and in response to such criticisms, the new range has no added caramel. According to Master Distiller Stuart Harvey, “Balblair 'new make' spirit is very spicy. It's nutty, floral, fragrant and fruity, with green apples. Apples, oranges, honey and vanilla are Balblair's core characteristics.”
All three vintages have been matured in American Oak, ex-Bourbon casks, but Harvey is keen to point out that "This is not to say there won't be any vintages in future from ex-Sherry casks, because there will." (See more in April's Whisky News and on www.balblair.com).
Balblair, 1979 (Scotland)
Honey, spice and vanilla on the mellow nose, plus the characteristic fruit notes of oranges and green apples usually associated with Balblair. Big, spicy and fruity on the palate, with subtle vanilla. The finish is buttery, sophisticated and profound. Great balance. A superb after-dinner dram. 46.0% ABV, 70cl, £84.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Balblair, 1989 (Scotland)
Matured in a second-fill Bourbon cask, this expression of Balblair is unusual in having a distinctive aroma of bananas, along with sultanas, nuts and spices. It exhibits a palate of toffee and spicy fruits, and becomes increasingly chocolately, with distinct cocoa notes, when given time to breathe. The finish is lengthy and complex, with lasting vanilla. 43.0% ABV, 70cl, £39.95, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
Balblair, 1997 (Scotland)
From a first-fill Bourbon cask, the fresh nose provides pineapple, lemon and spice. Fudge, honey, spices, sultanas and hard toffee dominate the palate, lingering with lemon in the longish, creamy finish. 43.0% ABV, 70cl, £27.99, specialist whisky merchants. |  |
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